Originally posted by Alex K:
Chris, I think that most of us in this forum are interested in instruments which are easy to carry, and are concerned with the size and weight of the instruments. I will submit that the same logic which you apply to the 88-key instruments (which usually are not even portable enough to be frequently moved from gig to gig by a solo performer) should be applicable to the 76 key instruments (as in Ketron SD1).
However, there is also an alternative solution - Yamaha used it on one of the eraly PSRs, and I thought it was quite practical. They used a rotating cylinder under the keys, so that you could control it with your thumb or even a heel of your palm. I think this could be a good approach to keep the frame and size of the instrument short and light.
Another concern with the Neko/Liontracks - for any kind of studio functionality we would need a totally silent computer - no fans, and (preferrably) no disk. I am not sure that either one is addressing this problem.
Regareds,
Alex
I do remember that roll-bar-under-the-keys thing on the older PSRs. While it was certainly compact, it wouldn't be my first choice for a performance controller. Manufacturers have often used novely ideas for performance controls on portable keyboards. I guess it depends how important the pitch and mod controls are to each user. While some people never use them at all, certain pro players frequently have to have the performance wheel assemblies replaced because of excessive use.
The main issue with pitch wheel placement is not so much about whether it's at the top or bottom as it is about how close the wheel is to the side of the instrument. What's important is having somewhere to wrap your fingers, elevating your hand slightly so that the heel of your palm can move freely without rubbing against the front panel while your thumb operates the wheel. This can be accomplished effectively with wheels at the top or bottom, as long as they are close to the edge.
With mid-panel placement, the heel of your left hand will drag across the front panel; resricting the movement of your thumb on the wheel, making your hand sore and, over time, rubbing off the paint in a small arc. The only way to avoid this is to form a kind of spider with your fingers to get the heel of your hand off the panel. Although this works it's not a very stable anchor and you will need to keep adjusting the position of your hand.
This is probably more information than anybody wanted about pitch wheel placement! Sorry about that. It just so happens that I spent hundreds of hours researching this particular issue for a manufacturer once in a past life. Guess I need to get out more

[This message has been edited by Chris A (edited 11-20-2003).]