I never use it but I gig around a lot and now all of a sudden it has started giving me occasional modulated sound although I keep the wheel right down all the time...grrr.
I'd like to be able to permanently shut it off is that possible?

Hi Rog,
I think you've got a defective potentiometer in the Mod Wheel and having looked around all the available settings, I cannot find a means of actually permanently disabling the Mod Wheel. However,I would think that in your case, the Modulation only affects the Right1 and Right2 sounds. It does affect the other sounds in Parts 1 through 16 if they are used in say Technicord. I expect that when you use Technicord, you would generally use either Conductor or perhaps Right2, to provide the Harmony part?

If this is the case - Try this.....
Press Program Menus > Sound > Part Setting and Scroll to Page 5. On the right of the screen, you will see two settings MSB and LSB. These parameters set the range of the Modulation Wheel - the larger the value - the greater the effect when you move the wheel. These parameters are normally set : MSB=0 and LSB=64, by default.
At the top left of the screen, Select Right1 sound and set LSB to '0'. Select Right2 sound and set LSB to '0'. That should ensure that there is no Modulation effect on Right1 and Right2, when moving the Mod Wheel.
If you do use say Part 4 as the Harmony voice for Technicord, then you will also need to set that part's LSB to '0'

However, if you change any set-up using Panel memories, or by loading a new file from SD Card or Disk, these values will be reset to the Default values of '0' and '64' and I can see no way of avoiding this
So, you will have to either change these settings every time you switch on, or, load each of your files from SD Card/Disk, change the LSB setting to '0' and then re-save.......
Using this option, will mean that every time you load one of the 'modified' files, the new value for MSB and LSB will be ='0'.

I have seen some earlier references to spraying some switch contact cleaner into the area, but I think this would be a bit of a hit-and-miss effort, since it is not possible to effectively target the actual potentiometer resistive track and wiper, because they are normally enclosed in the metal body of the potentiometer.
Hope this helps Rog............

Bill - Many thanks and I'll give it a try but as you say each time I load a new file from SD Card or change panel memories I will be back to square one.
Sounds like I might need a repair job done on the potentiometer - I know someone locally fortunately...

Roger if you are serious about permanently setting the wheel to the off position, you could simply have the technician disconnect the center tab of the potentiometer from the circuit board, assuming max resistance is off. If it is the opposite, where minimum resistance is off, he could short out the pot. I'm not sure which position is the off position. Would be easy to determine with the keyboard cabinet open. Either way, no parts would be required.

Hi Bob - yes I'm serious about decapitating it...I will put your suggestion to my local chap...many thanks.

Roger, sometimes I need to choose my words more carefully. In one extreme position, the center terminal of the pot is connected to one of the other terminals. At the other extreme position the center terminal is connected to the opposite terminal. The technician should remove the center terminal from the circuit board and then connect a jumper from the the circuit board where the center terminal was connected, to where one of the opposite ends of the pot are connected. Which end, needs to be determined first by the technician.

Ok - Bob thanks...I'll pass that info on...

Hi Rog,

maybe I can help?

It is this problem more often. Usually it was either the pitch bend wheel, or at even more of the Foot Switch socket behind Key. In the menu for the controller settings are at the Footswitch settings and the effect of GLIDE. When the SW1 and SW2 is turned on, it may be that the socket on the rear has a short circuit that is triggered by the shock to the housing while playing, and then the GLIDE effect permanently activated, and thus lower the keyboard one semitone but only the right hand. The auto accompaniment is not affected, ergo the whole sounds entirely obliquely, of course.
Adjusting for the o.g. Footswitch controller settings instead of the glide effect once a different effect, and test times, whether the pitch will drop still occurs. If not, it is certainly due to the rear jack. Or do you have a pedal connected to the jack, which is possibly defective. Then pull the plug out of the pedal once and test whether the drop is still pitch.

Press' Program Menus "

Then press "Control"

Then press "foot controller"

See if Footswitch 1 and 2 to "Glide" position.
Modify the effect of "glide" in another effect, eg Sustain and most, if the bug is still present.

I hope you can understand me.

Harry, I believe his problem is with the Modulation Wheel and not the Pitch Bend wheel. The suggestion that I made is certainly not appropriate for the Pitch Bend wheel.

Hi Bob,

Pitch bend and modulation are similar.
It is conceivable that a disruptive effect on the modulation wheel is?
If this effect occurs try the following:
Press Program menu.
Then press Edit Sound
Then press controller
Now look, what effect is on the mod wheel. Change the effect and Glide.

Thanks Harry. I doubt that Roger would assign modulation to a foot pedal. And, if the modulation wheel is all the way forward (turned off) it shouldn't matter what setting is used for the controller effect. Maybe it's a language translation thing . . . It doesn't hurt to try though.

On the other hand, if the pot is bad such that the slider is not making good contact it would act like Bill said above. It should be easy for the technician to check these things.

Hello Bob,

I also think that Roger is not the modulation puts a foot pedal. My experience is that the problem usually occurs when the rear jack
is bad.
By changing the effect can resolve the problem temporarily. If possible, a service can be made.

The MODULATION effect cannot be assigned to a Foot Pedal so Roger's problem is not a 'rear jack' socket.......

I have looked at the KN7000 Service Manual and the Modulation Control has no connections to a rear jack - it just connects directly to one of the Integrated Circuits, via internal wiring.

Hi Bill,

it is correct what you write. I have therefore also addressed the second Opportunity. "Sound Edit".
Look again at page 176 of the manual.
Perhaps there lies the problem. You have to try to locate the problem.

If, as it appears, the problem is related to faulty hardware, then any attempt to fix it with a software solution, is just not practical, because every time you change a Panel Memory or load a new set-up from SD Card or Floppy Disk, the fault will return. The only practical solution is to have a Technician investigate the hardware - i.e. the Modulation Potentiometer and its associated wiring, which I understand is the action Roger is taking.

Yes thanks Harry - I've been through all of that. I gig a lot and transporting the keyboard around along with a lot of other gear has probably caused damage to the modulation wheel potentiometer... A piece of bent business card stuck in the side of the wheel is presently solving the problem short term!!!